The water lapping under the 62-foot catamaran gently rocks us awake. In our quiet stateroom – one of four guest cabins on board – the sun is barely peeking through the hatch cover we left slightly open after stargazing the night before. Emanating from the salon up top, we catch the first whiffs of Capt. Dennis’ French press coffee and the heavenly aroma of banana pancakes on the griddle in first mate/chef Stephanie’s tiny galley.

And so starts another day in the British Virgin Islands. Just don’t ask us what day, date or time it is. Here in paradise, a visitor can lose track of time and (gasp!) forget they even own a cell phone.

We have Christopher Columbus to thank for discovering the BVI in 1493 on his second voyage to find the New World. But after a week of sailing these aquamarine waters, exploring deserted white sand beaches and being lulled into complete relaxation by soothing trade winds, we marvel that the rest of the New World was ever discovered at all.

If a sailing adventure is on your bucket list,  read more and sail away with me in this article I wrote for Texas Lifestyle magazine’s Fall 2018 travel issue.

BVI Strong

Sailors of all stripes have long been drawn to these islands, from Spaniards seeking to colonize them, to pirates like Henry Morgan and Blackbeard and explorers Columbus and Sir Francis Drake, to today’s charter boats which now comprise the predominant revenue source here. The 2017 hurricane season took its toll on the BVI along with its land-based tourism and sailing charter industry.  Nearly a year later, the customs and immigration office at Soper’s Hole/West End, Tortola, still is little more than a table and chairs shaded by a blue camp tarp. Those blue-tarp makeshift roofs dot the hillsides on most every inhabited island. On the other side of Tortola in Road Town, the BVI’s capital and hub of commerce, street lights still dangle precariously from half-standing light poles.

The recovery is slow. Labor is in short supply, as workers too struggle to find housing. And unlike the U.S. mainland areas hit by those same storms, there is no Home Depot down the street. Building materials here must be shipped in on cargo ships – their passage a daily site in the Sir Francis Drake Channel – and that adds time and money to the rebuilding process.

But these are resilient people, indeed their motto is BVI Strong, and rebuilding is evident at every anchorage. Increasingly hotels, restaurants and beach bars are coming back to life, charter boats have been repaired, the waters and beaches remain breathtaking. The visitors who wisely didn’t cancel their planned BVI vacations after the storm are the fortunate recipients of a trip of a lifetime.

Five-Star Pampering and Accommodations

With dozens of islands to navigate, the best way to maximize your time and see as much as possible on a BVI sailing trip is on a crewed charter boat. Catamarans are the predominant sailing vessels here, providing greater stability and more space than a typical monohull. A 62-foot boat like the More Amore offers more than 2,000 feet of interior living space – a nice size house – and that much or more outside space beckons on the aft eating deck and sunning space on the fore deck.  Climb a few stairs – warning, they can be slippery – and grab one of the four oversized bean bags under a shade awning for a bird’s eye view from the skipper’s helm.  If you aren’t diving or snorkeling later, the first mate might deliver up a fresh batch of mimosas or Bloody Mary’s for the morning’s sail to whatever destination is on the day’s itinerary. For those so inclined to sail, the captain is happy to share the wheel.

If you are envisioning an on-water equivalent of rustic camping, think again. These boats have all the luxuries of a five-star hotel, packaged in your own private setting.  Charter crews pride themselves on their gourmet menus. From galleys the fraction of a home kitchen’s size, and with limited cooktop/oven space and storage capacity, these chefs whip up meals worthy of James Beard award-winning status. Meal presentation is just as elaborate, with fruit centerpieces made into all manner of beachy designs and a different color-themed place setting for each meal. When we suggested using paper plates to make the work easier for our crew, we were quickly dismissed.  “This is not a paper-plate boat,” the captain quipped.

New Adventures Served Up Daily

For our nine days of adventure, Capt. Dennis welcomed us dockside and led us to our awaiting home-away-from-home in Red Hook Marina on St. Thomas. There, we were greeted with a fresh batch of Painkillers as we got a tour of the boat and the all-important safety briefing. Later after dinner ashore, we talked through the general itinerary, always contingent on wind and weather of course, and laid out a game plan for the next day.  This became a pattern over the nine-day charter: share favorites from the trip so far, and plan ever-so-loosely the next day’s adventures. Over the course of our charter, we visited 13 islands before we lost count.

The BVIs comprise four main islands – Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke and Anegada – and another 50-plus smaller ones, a few of which are uninhabited. They present the sailor with literally unlimited options, far too many to be explored in a single vacation. If you are sailing with a group, it’s likely that each person has a different wish list for the trip, so early and frequent communication is important. The goal is to plan a charter that makes each guest feel as though it is their trip of a lifetime.

On our charter of eight guests, some were certified divers, others only interested in snorkeling or swimming. Some enjoyed hiking and exploring on land; others were happy reading a book while lounging on the oversized trampoline on the bow.  Good communication with the crew in advance of arrival helps the captain plan a general itinerary and sailing route to make the most of each day.

What began as a “what was your favorite thing so far” roundtable over dessert each night soon had to be expanded to plural answers, as each previous day’s best experiences were topped by the subsequent days’ exploits.  If you are considering a BVI charter, here are a few crowd picks that consistently made the favorites list:

Snorkeling and diving The Indians. Probably amongst the top five most popular dive and snorkeling sites in the BVI, these four rock outcroppings near Norman Island are home to abundant sea life in waters shallow enough for snorkelers to enjoy. An underwater cave lies about 10 feet below, and with the deepest depth at about 50 feet, the Indians make an ideal first BVI dive. Diving alongside a P.A.D.I Dive Master – many charter captains or crew members are certified master divers with extensive experience – brings greater safety and a comfort level to visitors exploring unknown waters.

Swimming and hiking The Baths. The BVI National Park Service calls The Baths on Virgin Gorda a “geological wonder comprised of awe-inspiring granite boulders, which form sheltered sea pools on the beach’s edge.” An easy hike down a sand path opens onto the pristine blue-water protected Devil’s Bay. If you can bring yourself to leave its refreshing water, meander through the 40-foot boulders in sometimes waist-deep rock pools, then scale a series of ladders and ropes that deposit you  at the Bath’s white-sand beach with beach bar and palapa shops. Make your way back up the trail for lunch at The Top of the Baths. While waiting for your lobster salad and conch fritters, take a dip in the pool with its panoramic Caribbean vista.

Exploring Anegada.  The northernmost island in the BVI chain, Anegada’s nearly flat elevation is in stark contrast to the other islands’ peaks and outcroppings. Surrounded by 18 miles of coral reef, Anegada’s beaches offer calm swimming in crystalline waters. Like many visitors, we rented scooters for a day of exploring those beaches. Our first stop was an overlook platform, through which visitors can view the island’s Caribbean flamingoes which make the island’s salt ponds their home.

From there, stop in the open air Cow Wreck Beach Bar where your pina coladas are on the honor system. Join a young local for a spirited game of darts, linger in one of the colorful Adirondack chairs along the beach and take a dip in the beckoning water. Be sure to visit the gift shop down the sandy path, where you’ll find photos of recent visitors like St. John-resident and BVI-supporter Kenny Chesney.

No visit to Anegada is complete without a lobster meal, so plan lunch at the Anegada Beach Club. The open air restaurant is adjacent to the resort’s pool, and just a short walk to another beachfront bar alongside the resort’s “glamping style” palapa rentals.

Word of caution: the roads on Anegada are a mix of deep sand and asphalt and can be challenging to navigate on scooters, especially when the island had little rain. For a less-challenging option, jeep rentals also are available.

An afternoon at the Soggy Dollar, Jost Van Dyke. Known as the home of the original Painkiller – the BVI’s concoction of rum and juices topped off with nutmeg – the Soggy Dollar is back in operation after extensive hurricane damage. Charter boats claim their anchorage early in the day (by 11 a.m., the harbor was full) for swim-in access to this popular beach bar. Grab a picnic table or Adirondack chair, and settle in for an afternoon of fun. No room to anchor? Your charter captain can dingy your group directly to the beach, and return when you’re ready for pick up. You can even use the Beach Board to order ahead, and have your drinks waiting for you upon arrival. While the setting offers lots to do – including its infamous Soggy Dollar Ring Game – the best part of this afternoon can be simply doing nothing.

Hiking Sandy Cay.  An uninhabited and quiet island may be just the antidote to a day at the Soggy Dollar. With its 14 acres of nature preserve land originally donated by the late philanthropist Lawrence Rockefeller, Sandy Cay delivers solitude and untouched beauty. Sandy Cay lies between Tortola and Jost Van Dyke.  A sandy but well-maintained trail rises from the palm-tree lined beach to the island’s cliffs where you’ll be treated to a breathtaking 360-degree view. The island is home to several species of trees, shore birds and reptiles, and even leatherback sea turtle nests in some years.

But not all its beauty lies ashore. If time allows, don your snorkel gear for a glimpse at Staghorn and Elkhorn coral and an array of fish which inhabit the reef just off the shoreline.

3 C’s to a Great Trip

If you already are island dreaming, keep in mind these tips to help ensure a great trip:

Choose Carefully: Numerous charter companies and brokers offer help in choosing the right boat for your charter. Experienced sailors who don’t mind doing all the work – and having responsibility for a million-dollar-plus vessel – may opt for a bareboat charter. Food and supplies can be pre-arranged through provisioning companies or the charter company. A captain’s sailing resume is required, and most also require a check-out sail to verify the boat is in good hands before allowing her to leave port.

Those who prefer to leave the work and responsibility to others opt for a crewed charter, as we did. A “sleep aboard” night is a good option for groups after a long day’s travels,  enabling you to unpack luggage, get acquainted with the boat and crew, and get a good night’s rest before setting sail the next morning.

Clearly Communicate:  Being on a sailboat for a week or two is not the time to spring surprises on your travelers, or on the crew working to exceed your expectations. Be sure to fully communicate the interests, likes and dislikes of the group with whom you are sailing.  Crewed charters provide guests with a preference sheet – ours was a 10-page booklet – for specifying everything from what activities you enjoy to what foods and drinks you like and dislike, the music you listen to and any special needs or requests (an anniversary or birthday to be celebrated, for example).

Condense Your Packing. Even the largest charter boats have limited storage space. Pack in carry-on duffle bags that can be easily stowed away in your cabin. And avoid the temptation to over pack. Your daily wardrobe will consist of swimsuits and cover ups so bring all that you have. Otherwise, throw in a few pairs of shorts and tops, some flip flops and swim shoes, a hat or visor and you are set.  If space allows, pack an empty bag for bringing home the inevitable purchases you are sure to make along the way